Hi all!
Thank you for tolerating my long absence from this blog, it’s been a whirlwind.
In case you’re new here here’s a quick recap –
I was meant to begin my Master’s in Learning and Communication in Multilingual and Multicultural Contexts at the University of Luxembourg a year ago in September 2020. More info on my “about me” page.
We all know what happened.
I traded Europe for Canada and spent 6 months with my boyfriend in his hometown, Montréal. Read my reflection here.
I was accepted again to the same Master’s program.
I then missed mountains and returned home to Seattle for a few months. Stressed, completed paperwork and now….
…I can’t believe I’ve already been in Luxembourg for well over a month (nearly going on 6 weeks)! Between the general immigration and life admin of moving countries (especially during Covid!), starting graduate school (my goodness it’s been a while since I’ve been in an academic setting!), trying to overcome the inevitable loneliness of moving somewhere new, and continuing to freelance, it’s no wonder I’ve hardly had the time or mental energy to write a post.
Anyways, if you follow me over on Instagram (if not feel free to do so), you’ll have had a bit of a sporadic intro to my new home. BUT, I figured some of you who are big readers – like me – may prefer a lengthier reflection. So, without further a’do, my initial impressions of Luxembourg…
It really is a tiny country
This is both obvious and not so much. If you look a map your initial reaction is probably “duh”, but when you’re from the massive US of A, and have spent most of your life in North America, this point doesn’t really drive home until you arrive. Also, I’m from “out west”, where the states are much larger than say, the Northeast. I remember meeting a family from Boston in Wyoming and the Grandfather exclaiming “back home, you can drive 8 hours and be in 8 different states, here you drive for 8 hours and can be in the same state!”
That pretty much sums up (in reverse) how I feel about Luxembourg.
…but that doesn’t mean getting around is so easy.
More on this in below, but while it may be small, cars are king here. There are quite a few trains and buses, but not always direct, often require stopping in the city, the trains frequently have track work and delays AND from where I live can be a nightmare (also more on this in a second). I’m moving after the end of the semester to somewhere better connected, and hopefully that’ll make day and weekend trips and just getting out much easier.
There is no better place to study multilingualism
My second week in the country I had to undergo a mandatory medical check for foreigners. I was examined by a Serbian doctor speaking English, French, and yes, even a little Serbian to me! When she asked what I was studying, she exclaimed “there is no better place to study it!” I have to say, I agree.
I’m living and studying in the south of the country, near the French border. So anecdotally I’d say most people are either native French speakers or VERY comfortable with it as a second language (or L2 in linguistics as I’ve learned).
…but with this comes with the inevitable infiltration of the English language.
NOT that I’m complaining, this has some serious perks for English speakers comme moi. In my first few weeks (still ongoing actually) of running around to various government entities trying to sort residency paperwork, the university trying to sort enrollment and other admin like the bank and phone shop, I was always asked for a “cart d’indentité” or I.D. I would hand over my American passport and the person helping would more often than not, switch to English. This is great when you’re doing stressful and important official business like this, BUT I personally anyways live and travel abroad to practice languages, so this hinders a bit but not too much.
Usually part-way through the person is struggling to describe something or can’t find a word and I’ll remind them “je comprends français” or “I understand French” and they’re usually relieved and switched. I’ve also found it helpful to double-check some things in French, even if it’s been explained in English, to get the most accurate answer. And of course, in most cases where I don’t need to handover a passport, I have plenty of reason to use French. I also have to learn German as part of this degree, more on that later.
Free public transport is amazing
The first country in the world to do this! I cannot describe to you how nice this is. Yes, of course free anything is much appreciated. Particularly something we all use every day, and ESPECIALLY in a country as expensive as Luxembourg.
But really, what I think is the best part of this is the practicality. What do I mean? Well, not having to worry that you’ve bought the right ticket, or have enough on your transport card or need to get exact change for the bus, etc. You just jump on, transfer if you need to (which you often will as I mentioned above) and that’s that.
….but that doesn’t mean everyone will agree!
Part of the motivation to make public transport free for all was to solve the traffic issues. Yes, even though the country is VERY small, it’s mostly rural and connected by roads. After Luxembourg’s quick ascent to the richest country in Europe, the world, they dug up the old trams (which they’re now trying to bring back) and everyone bought cars. Add this to the fact that thousands of cross-border workers commute in from Belgium, France and Germany each day and yeah, there’s a lot of cars on the road. Hopefully this changes soon and there’s more direct routes!
The city is the place to be
You all know I am not in any way a city girl, so this MAY come as a bit of a surprise, but hear me out! Luxembourg City is tiny, if I have to live in an “urban” setting, it’s the perfect size. And while I’ll elaborate on this more in another post, where I’m living is not great. Usually I don’t mind the countryside, but Niederkorn where I am is well…eh rough for a West Coast American. Most of my roommates and other people living in the residence agree. We didn’t have a choice though, as it’s university accommodation and honestly we should just be thankful etc. etc. BUT that doesn’t mean I have to stay longer than a semester.
I’ve already arranged for a room starting late January in the city and I’m SO excited. As I mentioned above, it’s much easier to get anywhere else in the country, for hikes, castles and day trips from the city. Trips to neighboring countries or further afield Europe or the airport are MUCH easier from there.
Most expat meet ups are there or start from there and go somewhere else. I also don’t need to be in the south as I only have class 2 – 4 times a week depending on the week. And it’s more like a large village than town. I can’t wait. More on this later.
…but that doesn’t mean it’s perfect.
I’m sure I’ll grow tired of city life and need a break. Luckily as I’ve already explained, it’s quite easy to do so from there. It’s also really freakin expensive. I’ll be paying double what I pay here, for just a room and a shared bathroom and kitchen (I currently have my own bathroom). But it’ll be a nicer location, NOT a student residence, with young professionals and people more like me and there’s a terrace for nice days!
Everyone is extremely friendly
From my first day, lugging two suitcases, a backpack, a purse and a Baby Yoda on two buses and a train to get allll the way out here, I was shown the welcoming of Luxembourgers. Someone was always there to help me with my bags getting on and off transport and answer my questions when I was confused. When I got off the last train a nice guy picked up both suitcases off the train for me, then helped me down the stairs to the street, then intentionally walked slowly ahead of me and discreetly kept glancing over his shoulder probably thinking “is she gonna make it?” lol.
…but that doesn’t mean friendships will be instant.
More on this later. Don’t worry I’m fine, just trying to keep this post as short as possible – even though that’s rarely possible for me.
Reminiscent of home in some ways
People love to hike, bike and get outdoors here just like the Pacific Northwest. Cafe culture and low-key city life are quite similar to Seattle. Friendly but insular. Grey, rainy and temperate winters.
…but what they say is true, there’s no place like home.
I’m going to elaborate more on this in my next post, but damn. Moving abroad is rough. Moving abroad ALONE is even more so, especially when you’ve never been to the country before and there’s still an ongoing pandemic making everything much, much more complicated. It’s okay though. I feel a bit better each day, will continue to improve, but as an immigrant/expat, homesickness is a part of life.
So there’s my first impressions of Luxembourg! I’m sure my opinion and views will change over the next couple of years, and this will be fun to look back on.